Cosmetology: Past, Present and Future

Varvaresou Athanasia, PhD

Pharmacist, Associate Professor in Cosmetology, Head of the Department of Aesthetics and Cosmetology, Technological Educational Institute of Athens, 122 43 Egaleo, Greece; E-mail: avarvares@teiath.gr; varvaresou@pharm.uoa.gr

In the past, cost and effectiveness of formulation was the first aspect for formulators. Meanwhile, the world has changed as a result of the growing public sensibility for any kind of chemical in the products of daily use. Extensive changes in the worldwide regulatory context of cosmetics, increasing limitations in the choice of cosmetic ingredients and the desire of “educated” consumers for safe products, with the best possible dermatological, toxicological and environmental properties, force the cosmetic chemist to rethink about the choice for alternative ingredients and new methodologies of formulation, as well.

The interest of the cosmetic market is now focused on the elimination of chemical ingredients, research in cosmetic herbs and the development of new methods of formulation for more effective and safe cosmetics.

The outstanding progress of biometrics of the skin offers the cosmetic chemist and cosmetic therapist-aesthetician to investigate and compare the influence of the cosmetic actives on the depth of the skin and hair, the biomechanical properties of human skin and other skin parameters i.e. sebum secretion, hydration, etc. and substantiate the efficacy claims.

Furthermore, the oral cosmetics or the so called per os (through the mouth) cosmetics is another rapidly moving field of cosmetology especially for anti-aging, slimming/anticellulite products, which demands more clear overview of the regulatory context and ethical borders.

Oncology aesthetics complements medical oncology and falls under the integrative approach. Aesthetic treatments for the oncology patients aim to relax their pain by integrative techniques and reduce the adverse effects of chemotherapy and/or radiotherapy on skin, hair and nails.

Cosmetology, aesthetic practices and aesthetic dermatology is becoming a popular and attractive branch of health sciences. Nowadays cosmetic, aesthetic and dermatological treatment goes way beyond regular topical skin care. So, we have more to learn and to investigate in order to provide to our demanding consumers advanced skin care at molecular level under ethical terms and conditions.